What to eat, region by region

Turkish breakfast is a spread, not a single dish: cheese, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, jam, honey, clotted cream, eggs, bread and tea. In the Black Sea, look for kuymak; in Van, expect a bigger table.

Kebabs change with the city: Adana is spicy, Urfa is milder, İskender is döner with tomato sauce and yogurt, and şiş is skewered meat. Ask about spice and what comes with it.

Generally safe in cities, but many people drink bottled water. In rural areas, choose bottled or filtered water.

Choose busy stalls with high turnover, freshly grilled food and clean handling. Avoid food that has been sitting in the sun.

Pork is uncommon. Vegetarian and vegan options are growing in cities; ask about butter, yogurt, meat stock and fish sauce. Learn “etsiz” (meat-free) and “sütsüz” (dairy-free).

Alcohol is available in licensed venues, but not everywhere. During Ramadan, some restaurants adjust hours; be respectful in conservative areas.