Baklava: a short guide
Baklava is not just one dessert. It is a family of layered pastries, nuts and syrup, with regional styles and strong opinions about which city makes it best.
What it is
Baklava is layers of very thin pastry, clarified butter, nuts and syrup. Good baklava is crisp, light and not drowning in syrup.
Gaziantep
Gaziantep is the most famous baklava city, known for pistachio and a bright green colour. The city has a long pastry tradition and many shops sell by weight.
Types to try
Pistachio baklava, walnut baklava, kuru baklava (less syrup), sütlü nuriye (with milk), saray sarması and künefe, which is a different cheese dessert.
How to eat it
Baklava is rich, so a small piece is enough. Order tea or Turkish coffee alongside. Many shops sell mixed boxes, which are good for sharing.
Where to buy
Choose a busy shop with a visible tray and a strong nut smell. In Istanbul, Karaköy Güllüoğlu is famous; in Gaziantep, ask for ‘Antep fıstıklı’. Local neighbourhood shops are often just as good.
Taking it home
Baklava travels better than cream-based desserts. Buy it near the end of your trip, keep it cool and ask for a sturdy box.
What to eat, region by region
Kebabs
Kebabs change with the city: Adana is spicy, Urfa is milder, İskender is döner with tomato sauce and yogurt, and şiş is skewered meat. Ask about spice and what comes with it.
Turkish breakfast
Turkish breakfast is a spread, not a single dish: cheese, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, jam, honey, clotted cream, eggs, bread and tea. In the Black Sea, look for kuymak; in Van, expect a bigger table.
Sweets
Baklava, künefe, lokum, sütlaç, kazandibi and Maraş ice cream are the classics. Many are very sweet, so share a portion or order one to try.
Tea, coffee and drinks
Tea is the default drink; Turkish coffee is stronger and served in small cups. Ayran, şalgam, fresh pomegranate juice and boza are worth trying. Alcohol is available in licensed places, but not everywhere.
Street food
Simit, balık ekmek, midye dolma, gözleme, lahmacun and döner are the street-food classics. Busy stalls with high turnover are usually a good sign.